Preserve in a Pinch.
Yet again I'm faced with a flat of peaches that are ticking time bombs. They could be good for another 12 hours, or they could be rotten after I turn my back on them in a moment.
This week the best peaches from the best farm, Masumoto Farms in Del Rey, CA dropped at the market and are clearly outshining the rest of the produce. They're tiny and golden; perfectly juicy and perfectly sweet.
Other than eating a copious amount of fruit on a daily basis, I don't have much of a sweet tooth. I don't ever crave candy or dessert, nor do I ever keep it around the house. This same rule goes for jams, syrups, etc. so I've never been one for making preserves when the season calls for it. However, I've been bringing home so many damn peaches out of guilt and obligation that I thought of just doing the one thing I never do: jamming.
Since I've never been a frequent "jammer" I don't really have the set-up necessary for making traditional jams that are shelf stable. Instead, I do the quick and easy version that is small batch and ready to go in your fridge. I made a semi-large batch; enough to keep around some jars and give the rest to friends. I don't eat too much jam, so it makes no sense to make a bunch of preserves.
I also wanted to appease my savory tendencies and make a jam that a little more interesting and herbaceous so I made two varieties with the peaches that I had: rosemary / thyme & star anise / black pepper. Both turned out to be very unique and still versatile. Other herbs and spices can be used in this recipe, whether it's fennel, chili pepper, lemon zest, lemongrass, ginger -- really anything you can think of!
Peach Preserves
w/ star anise and black pepper
w/ rosemary and thyme
makes 1/2 dozen or so small jars of either variation -- up to you!
2 lbs peaches, yellow and white
½ lb mixed fruit (I used strawberries, nectarines, etc)
¼ cup sugar
1 tsp salt
1 apple, peeled and roughly chopped
for thyme/rosemary:
1 tsp thyme leaves
1 tsp rosemary leaves
for star anise/black pepper:
1 lime, juiced
4 star anise pods
10 black peppercorns, crushed
1 long peppercorn
Begin by breaking up the peaches into a saucepan. The best and easiest way to do so is to use your hands to rip them apart from the pit with your hands over the saucepan. Rip apart as much flesh from the pit as possible, skin and all, then discard.
If making the star anise recipe, add the small amount of mixed fruit to provide some extra acid and tang. Also add the apple as well; this will provide the natural source of pectin to hold everything together. Next, place the fruit in the pan on the stove over medium high heat and bring to a boil. As the fruit begins to bubble away, mix and mix and mix. Start breaking up the chunks of peach with a wooden spoon by smashing them on the edge of the pot.
At this point, add the spices, whether using the rosemary and thyme, or the anise and black pepper. If doing the latter of the recipes, I recommending adding the peppercorn later, however, so it doesn't impart too much flavor.
Reduce the heat to low -- and still mix often, although you don't have to hover over it to tend to it. When everything begins to change colors and cook down more, start skimming the foamy scum with a small spoon that forms on the edges of the pan. This step is purely aesthetic and optional, although it's not the best tasting part of the jam.
Continue to let the jam simmer, uncovered. Periodically mix and skim from the top for at least a few hours, or until desired consistency.
When the jam is complete, either follow traditional canning steps to ensure a stable and long shelf life, or simply transfer to air-tight jars, label, and pop in the fridge!
